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Angelo Dibona (7 April 1879 – 21 April 1956, nickname: Pilato) was an Austria-Hungary Mountaineering. In World War I, he fought for Austria, but his home South Tyrol was annexed by Italy anyway. He is remembered as one of the great pioneers of climbing in the Dolomites and is responsible for many first ascents throughout the Alps. The Aiguille Dibona in France, the Campanile Dibona (Monte Cristallo) and the Dibona-Kante on the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (both in Italy) are named after him.
One of his most notable first ascents was of the Pain de Sucre du Soreiller, a granite peak in the French Massif des Écrins, which he climbed in 1913 with Guido Mayer (an Austrian client with whom he climbed many peaks in the Dolomites and other parts of the Alps). This mountain was renamed the Aiguille Dibona in his honor. Dibona developed a long-term and almost symbiotic friendship with Mayer and his brother. The first ascent of Dibona with Luigi Rizzi and the brothers Guido and Max Mayer on the very high southwest face of the Croz dell'Altissimo (Brenta) is known, where Dibona made sections of the upper V ° during complete free climbing on August 16, 1910. Angelo Dibona, simbolo delle guide di Cortina
He became one of the most famous guides and mountaineers ever. The Belgian King Albert I and the two baronesses Ilona und Rolanda von Eötvös, for example, were also among his customers. Angelo Dibona - Bergführer, Kaiserjäger, Dolomiten-Pionier Angelo Dibona was not only an alpine guide, but also became one of the first three ski instructors in Cortina d'Ampezzo in 1911. Angelo Dibona, simbolo delle guide di Cortina
In the First World War he fought as a Kaiserjäger on the Austro-Hungarian side together with Luis Trenker and was awarded two medals of bravery and the "Iron Merit Cross with Crown" (Eiserne Verdienstkreuz mit der Krone). National Archives of Austria (Österreichisches Staatsarchiv), Abt. Kriegsarchiv Wien, Belohnungsakten des WK 1914-1918, MBA Nr. 150.433 (Karton 66), Nr. 297.672 (Karton 150), Neue Feldakten 10. AK Nr. 5.709 vom 20. Oktober 1918 (Karton 372). He fought on the Isonzo, Mangart, Ortler and Presanella. His special task was to lay telephone lines through seemingly inaccessible walls. He experienced the end of the "Mountain Guide War" in 1918 on the Ortler, together with his best friend Franz Aschenbrenner. Other well-known mountaineers such as Sepp Innerkofler, Gustav Jahn and Rudl Eller were his comrades on the Dolomite front. During the war he also worked as a course leader and instructor for mountain combat. Angelo Dibona - Bergführer, Kaiserjäger, Dolomiten-Pionier Gustav Jahn - His mountain and touring friends (german) Chronik einer Zeitwende
In the 1920s he climbed in the English Lake District, making first ascents of streams in the Honister Pass area. In 1947 the Appalachian Mountain Club reported that Dibona was still doing "spectacular" rock climbs at the age of 65.
In the controversy between Paul Preuss and Hans Dülfer about the use of pitons when climbing from before the 1st World War, Dibona spoke out in favor of safety. When Luis Trenker asked how many pitons he had hit in total, Dibona replied: "Fifteen, six of them on the Laliderer north face, three on the Ödstein, two on the Croz dell 'Altissimo, one on the Einser and the rest on other difficult climbs." When asked about his three most difficult tours, he said: "The south face of the Meije, then the Dent de Réquin and the Ailefroide." Gerhard Schirmer: Angelo Dibona - Bergführer, Kaiserjäger, Dolomiten-Pionier (German)Horst Christoph "Held mit 15 Haken" In: Der Standard, 28 February 2013. Jim Erickson "Mauerhaken Streit: The Great Piton Debate of 1911", 29.9.2020
In 1953, Dibona's daughter Antonia opened a refuge near the Tofana and named it after him. The Rifugio Tarditi, named after the Italian section commander, was already in the same place during the First World War. Cai Veneto - Rifugio Dibona Italian Outdoorgroup - Rifugio Dibona
In 1976, a monument in the form of a bronze bust was erected to him in a prominent place on the main square of Cortina, the place mentioned later "Piazza Angelo Dibona".Horst Höfler "Dream Teams – Die erfolgreichsten Seilschaften des Alpinismus." (2008) pp 25. Cortina. Piazza Venezia intitolata a Dibona At the inauguration, Luis Trenker said: “He was the most famous and successful mountain guide of his time, perhaps the most universal. No other Dolomite guide can show similar achievements, and there will soon be none among the young who will match him in human size ... " Gerhard Schirmer: Angelo Dibona - Bergführer, Kaiserjäger, Dolomiten-Pionier In 2006 there was a large exhibition in Cortina about the achievements and first ascents of Dibona. Angelo Dibona, alpinist and guide in Cortina d'Ampezzo In an interview in 2009 Reinhold Messner explicitly described Angelo Dibona as one of the greatest Austrian mountaineers.Horst Christoph "Held mit 15 Haken" In: Der Standard, 28 February 2013. In 2013 a large mandala in honor of Angelo Dibona was made in memory in Cortina by an artist with locals and children.Marina Menardi "Il flash mob per Dibona con un mandala"
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Notable first ascents
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